“Oooh, Mexico!
It sounds so simple, I just got to go.
The sun’s so hot, I forgot to go home;
I guess I’ll have to go now”.
(Mexico: James Taylor)
“
Whad du you
teesh?” the
oficial de aduana said as he stared at my Tourist Card.
“Excuse me?” I replied, caught off guard by the question I didn’t understand. “
Perdon?” I repeated in Spanish, offering him another language for clarification.
“Whad du you teesh?” the chubby customs agent repeated slowly, eyeing me now from his towering kiosk in the vast hall.
“Oh, you mean ‘What do I teach’” I said, realizing what he meant. My mind whirled with options now that I knew what he was referring to. Do I tell him the truth? I asked myself; or do I go with what I wrote. I was trapped by the over-thinking I did when I filled out the Tourist Card on the airplane. The form asked for one’s occupation, and I had debated putting the accurate response “Principal”, or the more generic answer, “Teacher”. I opted for “Teacher”, believing that it was clearer and would not provoke confusion or questioning. Obviously, I thought wrong, because now I was stuck supporting an inaccuracy.
“High school, I teach high school” I replied, hoping he would get on with the business of processing my passport and visa, so I could move on in line.
“No, no”, he persisted. “Whad subsheck du you teesh?”
“Oh, I see”, I answered, finally understanding the full intent of the question. “I teach history; U.S. History in high school”.
“I am a teesher also”, he said, with a wide smile, placing my documents on the counter. “I juant to teesh in the Eunited Estates juan day. Eez theez deefeecult?” Any hope of escaping this checkpoint sank like a lead weight in the deep waters of the agent’s American Dream. The agent was ignoring the extended lines of weary travelers behind me, and engaging me in a personal conversation.
Since disembarking from the airplane, I had been moving back and forth, in a snail-like crawl, through the switch-back lines of the vast Sala de Aduana (Customs and Immigration Annex) of the airport. This is the bottleneck point of every international flight, but tonight it was worse. We were the last of three delayed flights, all arriving in Mexico City at the same time. The sudden onslaught of foreign arrivals overwhelmed the exhausted night crew, who wanted to end their shift and go home on a late Friday night. Despite the vast crowd and long lines, I managed to keep my mood upbeat and positive. Pulling out my cell phone, I called Kathy in Los Angeles and told her of my trip and arrival, and shared my excitement about being in Mexico. Talking with her helped dispel my fatigue and reanimated me at the prospect of seeing my family and learning how they had managed these last 5 years.

Courtesy in Mexico does not translate into the brisk and efficient completion of ones duties or obligations. Cortesía is the establishing of a relationship through personal communication and empathy. Having dispatched three prior travelers in quick order, the customs agent was unexpectedly doing me the courtesy of ignoring his immediate tasks to talk to me. I let the emotional wave of annoyance pass through me, and looked at him thoughtfully as I replied:
“What subject do you teach?” I asked with a resigned smile.
“Espanish” he replied.
My smile faded. This information created major obstacles to the agent’s goal. “I’m afraid it is difficult to find work in the United States as a teacher right now” I said. “In California, the state requires an American credential to teach. This usually means one year of training and supervised practice after your degree. Some states will recognize foreign credentials in certain hard-to-staff subjects, like mathematics and science. Can you teach mathematics or science?”
“No” he responded, picking up my documents. “I am creedenshalled du teesh Espanish and Inglish. I cannod teesh matemateeks or escience”.
“Lo siento” I said, reverting to Spanish in hopes of lessening the impact of my bad news. “Es posible, pero muy dificil. Tendrás que mantenerte en un empleo y al mismo tiempo assistir a clases para completar su credencial de maestro”.
“Du bad” he said, dividing the visa, and placing my section inside the passport. “I weel conteenue drying”. He handed me back the passport with a wan smile. “Hav a nice treep”
“Thank you” I said, snatching the passport like a relay race baton, and positioning myself for a dash toward the baggage entrance. I’d only gone three strides when a cramp of shame rose up to hobble me, and halted my sprint for the door. I slowly turned around and returned to the kiosk, looking over the shoulder of a woman traveler who was standing in my former place.
“Amigo” I called, waiting for him to look away from the documents he was reading. “I want to wish you good luck with your dream. It will be hard, but it is possible – Buena Suerte”.
“Tank you, señor” he replied with a beaming smile. “Vaya con Dios”.
By the time I reached the baggage area, my solitary red valise was the only visible object next to the empty luggage-conveyor. I raised the retractable handle and guided the rolling suitcase to my next stop on this improbable adventure.

Three weeks earlier I received an email from my Mexican cousin Mari Lupe, the eldest daughter of my Uncle Pepe. I was intrigued by the communiqué, but not surprised. Mari Lupe was one of a group of first cousins who were on an electronic-mailing list I maintained. For the past 2 years, I’ve sent them regular emails with a link to my blog (see Dedalus Log). The stories always included generous amounts of photographs to entice my Spanish speaking cousins to try reading my English. My initial attempts at writing emails in Spanish had slowly withered and died after the Golden Wedding Anniversary of my Uncle Pepe and his wife, Margarita. That gala event in 2004 was the last time I visited Mexico (See Mexican Connections). Since then I kept in tenuous contact with monthly blog alerts. I assumed Marilupe was simply updating me on a change of residence, phone number, or email address. Instead she announced a party. The email explained that my cousins Mari Lupe and Güero were hosting a reunion of cousins (and surviving uncles) at Güero’s home in Tlalnepantla, a city outside of Mexico City, near Ciudad Satelite. The party promised to include relatives I had not seen on my last visit to Mexico. Mari Lupe also offered a method for instant (real-time) communication with the United States, by explaining that a video-computer connection would be available at the party. My immediate reaction to this unexpected news was to barge into Kathy’s reading-in-bed time and ask:
“What do you think about flying to Mexico City on a weekend for a family reunion?”
Her response: “Are you crazy!” brought me to my senses. Of course I couldn’t fly to Mexico for a party in three weeks. It wasn’t like flying to San Francisco or Sacramento for a business meeting or conference. Traveling to Mexico required international flight plans, passports, visas, and hotel arrangements. One couldn’t drop everything and just fly down to Mexico. Sufficiently sober, I told Kathy she was right and wrote to Mari Lupe saying that I loved the ideas of a reunion and would try establishing a video hook-up with the help of my younger brothers. Yet I was still haunted by the dream of seeing my cousins again – especially those I had not seen on my last trip. Five years ago I was only able to speak to Rosita (the eldest female cousin and daughter of my aunt Chita) and Tavo (my aunt Totis’ son and Nena’s brother) by phone. Our plans to reunite never came to pass. Rosita died of cancer one year later, and a scheduled visit to see Tavo and his family during Easter vacation floundered on the rocks of a family crisis. Rosita’s death was especially unsettling, because it reminded me of the untimeliness of death, and the frailty of our connections to family members who live so far away from each other (see Mexican Connections). Mari Lupe’s invitation sounded so tempting that I did not drop it completely. I sent an email to Nena (my aunt Totis’ only daughter and Tavo’s sister), asking for more information on the party, and if she and Tavo were going. Nena responded a week later saying that the party was a wonderful surprise to everyone, and that she and Tavo were planning to attend. She saw the reunion as an excellent opportunity for her three children to connect with their surviving great-uncles and cousins. More importantly, she begged me to reconsider going by mentioning that Tavo, who is infamous for sudden changes of hearts and no-show’s, would definitely attend if he knew I was coming.
“You really want to go to this party, don’t you?” Kathy said ruefully, after I told her of Nena’s email.
“Yeah, I do”, I decided. “I think it’s important for me to be there”.
“I get that” she said. “You know I’ve been there”, referring to her intuitive decision to fly to Switzerland and visit her sister Mary Ellen in the hospital several years earlier. “Do you want me to help?” she volunteered.
“I’d appreciate it”, I replied, relieved at her acceptance and assistance. “I’m not sure how to make the flight reservations”.
Thirty minutes later, Kathy had finalized my travel arrangements. I would leave LAX on Friday at 2:30 p.m., and arrive in MEX at 7:30. I would return home on Sunday at 7:30 p.m. After an exchange of emails and telephone calls with Nena, it was arranged that she would pick me up at the Benito Juarez Airport and I would spend two nights with her family of three: Carolina (26), Jorge (24), and Alex (23). I’d met her children briefly five years before, but I doubted they remembered me clearly.

I’ve traveled enough to know that a quick, 3-day turnaround like this can be physically exhausting. I was also heading into a huge social event, which, because of the complexities of language, lack of mobility, and family politics, could be stressful. However, I refused to acknowledge these factors as problems. They were simply facts, which did not alter or affect my determination to go. I would approach this trip as a blessing; a wonderful opportunity to visit Mexico, practice my Spanish, and embrace family members I rarely see. My blissful feelings of being guided on this trip were tested at the outset. Kathy was the first to report a change of fortune in my plans on Friday morning. She called to warn me of a possible delay with my flight as I was catching the shuttle from Parking Lot C to the Aeroméxico terminal. I dismissed the worries as lingering symptoms of her unease over my precipitance trip while I sped through the airline check-in, luggage drop-off, security inspection, and McDonald’s Restaurant, to arrive at my boarding gate with time to spare at 2 o’clock. There I was jolted by confirmation of a delay that slowly grew in length and tedium, from 30 minutes, to one hour, to 90 minutes, and finally two hours. I managed to keep up my spirits by reading and calling forth old memories of my excitement and anticipation of traveling to Mexico. We finally boarded the plane at 4:30 p.m. and took off a little after 5 o’clock. The plane landed at 9 o’clock, Mexico City time.
As I entered the baggage inspection area in Mexico City, I thought I was facing the last hurdle of the arrival process. This station could be quick and easy or long and cumbersome. I walked up to a tall metal column with a pair of uniformed, female attendants positioned on each side.
“Poosh dee bootoon, pleez” said the attractive young lady on the right.
I pushed the large, over-sized plastic button on the column and saw it glow green.
“Tank you, you may go” she said, pointing at a high wall of beveled glass that magically opened for the passengers who were exiting the area.
I felt the pendulum of luck finally swing to my side as I walked by the countless weary travelers who had pushed red and were now opening their suitcases and carry-on luggage to the critical eyes of stone-faced aduana agents. I began visualizing, as best I could, the faces of Nena and her children as I approached the sliding glass wall. Walking through I was greeted with the echoing sounds of a vast concourse filled with travelers, rolling luggage, taxi cab and limousine drivers, and countless men and women lined up and waiting to meet or pick up friends and family members.
“Taxi, señor” someone call, as I slowed my pace to carefully scan the assembled faces.
“No, gracias” I mumbled, never moving my gaze from the line of men and women. I walked to my right, looking for Nena, and then came back along the same course. There were a couple of individuals holding hand-lettered signs, but none read “Delgado”. I saw no one I recognized, and walked through the line to the other side of the hall.
“Now what do I do?” I said to myself, when I reached the wall at the opposite end of the vast area. I walked around in a slowly, widening arc, went to the bathroom, and returned to the receiving line in front of the beveled glass wall; but I saw no familiar faces or signs. I felt a visceral compulsion to follow the flow of confident pedestrian travelers leaving this hall and walking toward another corridor marked “Transporte”. Fighting this impulse to escape, I sat down near the sliding wall to think and weigh my options. I tried calling Nena by cell phone, but kept getting a trouble signal. I didn’t miss the irony of having just called my wife in Los Angeles with ease, and finding myself unable to contact my cousin who lived in the immediate vicinity. I cursed my rotten luck, and my delay. The two hour flight delay and hour-long customs ordeal had to be responsible for this SNAFU (World War II term: “Situation normal – All Fucked Up); I could not believe that Nena or her children would fail to meet me at the airport. As I stood up to try one more walk along the receiving line, the cell phone in my pocket rang. It was Kathy, calling from California.
“Tony, I have Nena on the other line. She couldn’t reach your cell phone, so she called me. Where are you? Her son is at the airport, but he didn’t see you”.
My heart rate accelerated with relief, as I tried describing my surroundings in Spanish. I looked around the hall; picking the largest, most recognizable objects to name. I then listened to Kathy repeating the words to Nena, who in turn repeated them to her son, wherever he was. I was rotating my head from side to side, with the phone in my right ear, when a young man in a black jacket stepped in front of me.
“Tio Tuny?” he asked.
“Si” I replied, looking intently at his face and realizing that I would never have recognized him as Nena’s son. “Kathy, he found me” I said into the cell phone. “He was here all along. Tell Nena everything’s fine”. I closed the phone and looked again at this wide-faced, short-haired young man.
“Soy Alejandro, Alex” he explained, extending his hand.
“Como no” I said, shaking his hand and then directing him toward me so I could give him a huge hug of relief and gratitude. “Es un placer verte”.
The euphoria of discovery and safety saturated every pore and lasted for a long time. Any fears of inadequate vocabulary and my miserable accent faded as I chatted in Spanish with Alex, and his traveling companion Alejandra. I would have preferred simply answering their questions, but questions were not forthcoming. I suspected that Alex and this second generation of cousins were not as curious about me as I was about them. But I wasn’t going to waste this opportunity, so I became the interrogator on our drive from the airport, to Alejandra’s house (to drop her off), and finally to Alex’s home in Campestre Churubusco, a suburb to the south of Mexico City. It was there that I finally greeted my cousin and hostess Nena. When Alex left to join other friends for a late evening of cabarets and music, Nena and I opened a bottle of red wine and spent the next three hours talking about our families, current situations, and future plans. The nightcap was a perfect vehicle for reviewing the past and catching up to the present. I went to bed at around 2:00 a.m., and slept through the jumbled dreams of faded memories disguised in new signs and symbols. The next morning I had a quiet breakfast with Nena while her children slept off their late arrivals, and we outlined the day to come and our itinerary. Later, I gathered up my backpack and camera and took a long, solitary walk along the wooded meridian that ran through this suburban vecindad. Mexico has a distinct “look”. One notices it the minute you cross the border. The color, shape, and design of homes, buildings, and neighborhoods are radically different from the United States. The sounds, music, and conversations that float through the air seem to guide the tone and tempo of the people, and the manner they interact with each other. I am an American by birth and education, but Mexico still calls me home. There is an emotional connection that sparks anew whenever I visit this Second World country. Perhaps it is because the words and songs I hear in this land elicit the first sensations of love and happiness I felt in the arms of my mother. It was in the Campestre Churubusco Park, under the shade of an elm tree, that I inhaled the caressing embrace of Mexico and reflected on the zigzag course of my journey.

When writing in my journal, I’ve occasionally perceived a pattern to our lives that is visible in the smaller stories that unfold around us. It wasn’t until I sat in the park on Saturday morning that I sensed the rhythm of the events that had occurred and were still unwinding on this visit to Mexico. The invitation from Mari Lupe, the emails, flight reservations, delays and difficulties, all flowed in an undulating sequence of ups and downs. The tempo of this trip was alternating from action to boredom, from excitement to dismay, and from serenity to anxiety. There was no groove to this mission; the only constant was my determination to be present at the party, and my belief that it was the right thing to do. I’d managed to fight off Friday’s annoyances, but the upcoming day promised more complex uncertainties. If I could not force events and people’s actions to follow my preferred plot, I needed to give in and enjoy myself. I wasn’t crafting a fictional tale of family homecoming and reunion; I was living the consequences of a spontaneous act. I felt sure that the secret to a satisfying visit was accommodating myself to the rhythm of the day, and the flow of the events. I needed to close my eyes, relax my body, and allow my innate buoyancy to keep me afloat on the swells of this heaving ocean of time, space, and movement. On that note I closed the writing tablet I was filling with prose, and accepted the day as a poetical exercise in free verse. I retraced my path to Nena’s house and let Saturday in Tlalnepantla come to me:

Sabado en Tlalne
High noon,
and timing is crucial
for five adults to coordinate
one shower.
Humor and patience
are needed,
in a family of four,
especially if you add a novia,
and a primo gringo.
The stress test
was a drive to Satelite,
with six people in a car,
along colonial streets,
too narrow and old,
made worse this year
by the incessant construction
of overhead bridges
for the bi-centennial.
A luxurious manor
on a wooded hill
was our first stop.
A gleaming palace
of glass and brick
with marble ceilings
and sparkling floors,
hid 3 raven-haired princesses
from preying eyes.
Alejandra (16), Andrea (14),
and Ariana (12)
spoke lilting, breathless Spanish,
at velocities
near the speed of sound.
After hugs and photos,
we were on our way
to Tlalnepantla,
the hilltop citadel
of mighty Hector,
Güero,
the host of this tale.

A red Hummer
and black Expedition
powered the carriages
on the last leg if the trip.
Jorge and Alex plotted a course,
with the first map I’d seen
in this land of sluggish traffic,
and creative driving.
Down a hill and turning left,
we enter a cul-de-sac called
Prolongacion
Avenida Santa Cruz.
A trim, polo-shirted lady
leapt from a doorway
to guide our docking,
and someone exclaimed
“Es Margot!
Hemos llegado!”

Walking through the tented courtyard
was a festive gauntlet,
of hugs, shouts, and kisses.
Faces from my youth,
still recognizable,
despite the graying hair
and furrowed brows,
reminded me of days long past,
when sunrises never dimmed.
Of the surviving triumvirate
of tios,
only Uncle Pepe, “el profe”
was there
with all his children and nietos.

Wave after wave of cousins
came cresting,
with spraying sparkles
recording their smiles.
Martha posed them,
and Fede traced them.
A tsunami of faces I once knew
arrived with hijos and nietos.
I could not recall
so many families together,
without drama, or anger,
or tensions straining;
only gales of laughter
and shouts of joy.

My biggest surprise
was the next generation
of primos.
No longer infants
Hiding behind doors,
pants, or skirts,
they were brash adults
with novios and spouses.
I met Pepe’s girls Nora and Elvira,
And spoke to Margot’s son Luis
of jobs and work.
I discovered that Carlos’ boy, Carlos,
inherited my Air Force fatigues;
and Jorge is a reporter for El Universal.
Nena’s boys are planning careers
in design and music engineering;
and Tavo’s girl Alejandra
dreams of art and film production.

A portrait was taken
of a Villalpando family
at that moment in time.
From top to bottom,
and from left to right,
the litany began:
Marilupe, Tavo, Irma,
Celia (Nena), Blanca,
Fede, Carlos, and Pico.
Margot, Gabino, Nena,
Jaime, Pepe, and Beto.
Güero, Tony, Ale, Nina,
el Profe, Memo, Raquel, and Sofia.

The profe spoke
of needing to gather
before the passing of
too much time,
and led a silent prayer
of hope
for the absent ones,
who reside in the city,
and in the republic.

At veinte horas,
or 8 o’clock,
the church bell tolled,
and the despedida began.
Besos y abrazos, and
hopes of a swift return.
The evening ended
with a cena at El Guardian,
where the “children”
watched and listened
to three oft-separated cousins
talk all night.

On late Sunday morning, Pepe and his family arrived for a desayuno of huevos y chilaquiles. The evening before, he had expressed the wish to visit in a less hectic and distracting environment. So Nena had graciously invited him and his family for breakfast. The quiet and relaxed locale was reminiscent of other desayunos in that home, when Totis would prepare the meals, direct the conversation, and entertain her local relatives and foreign travelers. We chatted and I updated them on the status of my mother, brothers, sisters, and children at home. When they left, all that remained to do was pack my suitcase, say goodbye to Nena and her children, and ride with Alex to the airport. The melody and refrain of my traveling blues resumed at the airport, when I discovered that I was in the wrong terminal for a 3 o’clock flight on Alaskan Airlines. Suppressing the quick impulse to panic and rush, I calmly, forced myself to ask for information and trust that everything would work out. I eventually made my way to the tram and traveled to Terminal 2, on the opposite side of the airport. I arrived at the boarding gate with just enough time to catch my breath, dreading a replay of the trials and delays of my arrival. The lyrical flow of Saturday seemed an illusion, and I feared returning to the chaos of “real time” and “actual events”. To shut off these disturbing thoughts I took out a book to read.
“Excuse me” a voice intruded.
I looked up to inspect a young man sitting directly across from me in the crowded boarding area. He had a high forehead, a wide face, and a beaming smile.
“Are you Mr. Delgado?” he continued, peering steadily into my eyes.
A fleeting shadow of recognition brushed my memory. I recalled a stampede of P.E. students, jogging around the interior quad of the school, tossing rubber chickens to each other, and begging me to watch their antics.
“Yes” I replied. “Were you a student at Shangri-la?”
“Yes” he said.
“What’s your name? You look very familiar.”
He was Jesus Rodriguez, a student who graduated in 1999. That we were meeting in the airport of Mexico City, on the same flight back to Los Angeles was astounding, and I lost track of time and worry.
Chance meetings with former students are always a delight. These encounters affirm my belief that the middle school years, from 11 to 13 years of age, are the most wonderful and absurd – because children can only get better from that point. The “Halflings” of that stage (neither elementary school children nor high school adolescents) drive adults and parents crazy by their uncanny ability to make bad decisions and failing to learn from their mistakes. They are known to provoke utter despair. Yet, for those teachers, counselors, and adults, who can vaguely recall their own feelings and experiences during those years, there is a bizarre logic to these “bone-headed” behaviors. Meeting them as young adults finally confirms that they really do grow up and improve after middle school. It is wonderful to hear what they have accomplished, and who they have become, since their days in Shangri-la. I will confess Jesus’ story ranked as one of the most interesting.
“What brought you to Mexico City? I asked. “Were you visiting someone, or on vacation?”
“No” he replied. “I came for a wrestling match. I’m a professional wrestler called Chimaera”. He paused for a moment, reached into his backpack, and held up a flaming red mask.
“That is so cool” I exclaimed. “You’re in Lucha Libre!”

Jesus was a freelance, masked wrestler, named Chimaera, in the carnival-like world of Lucha Libre. This was the Mexican version of “Wrestlemania”. He let me hold his mask as he told me how he and a group of high school friends had taken a backyard hobby and developed it into a part-time interest that paid him to travel around the world. I was fascinated by his tale, and pestered him with questions about this gaudy, sport-entertainment spectacle. When my questions took on a paternal tone, with concern about the short and long-term effects of this physically demanding “sport”, he assured me that wrestling was a hobby, not a career. He had a full-time job as a graphic designer for an ITT firm in Van Nuys. His boss allowed him to adjust his hours and work schedule so he could travel and perform. He enjoyed it now, but realized that these activities were taking a toll on his body, and his wrestling years were limited. Our conversation ended when we boarded the plane, and four hours later we landed in Los Angeles. I saw Jesus briefly in the baggage area when we were recovering our suitcases, and I waved goodbye.
“Lucha libre” I murmured to myself. “What a great metaphor; a ‘free struggle’ for harmony and balance”. I walked out into the cool, fading twilight of evening and caught the shuttle to the parking lot, and home.
