By sweat of brow
Shall you earn your food,
Until you return to the ground
From which you came.
Remember, thou art dust,
And to dust thou shall return.
(Genesis 3:19)
As I walked down the extended, brick archway, to the church entrance, I noticed a narrow table pushed against the wall. It was piled high with posters and brochures, and festooned with bright yellow signs. “Yes on 8: Protect Marriage” the placards read, in giant blue letters. Speeding past this gaudy altar, and ignoring the 2 men passing out flyers, I sensed that this Sunday’s liturgy was going to be difficult. Once seated, I tried centering my thoughts, and ignored the disturbing political presence at the door. The choir was settling into place and awaiting the choral master to lead them in the processional song. It was a lyrical litany of saints, followed by the melodic refrain “Pray for us”. On and on, the roll call sounded, chased by our plea for intercession: “Saint Lucy – pray for us; Saint Catherine – pray for us; Saint Francis - pray for us; Saint Joseph – pray for us; Saint Jude – pray for us; Saint Sebastian – pray for us…” Keeping rhythm with the tune, I scanned the Old and New Testament readings as the priest and altar servers marched in and began the service. When the first lector took the podium, I made a special effort to concentrate and listen to the words. Some of them were particularly reassuring.

The first reading was from the Old Testament: “Those who trust in him shall understand truth, and the faithful shall abide with him in love” (Wisdom 3: 1-9). The second reading was from the epistle of St. Paul: “Brothers and sisters: hope does not disappoint, because the love of God has been poured into our hearts” (Romans 5: 5-11). The final reading was from the Gospel according to St. John: “Jesus said to the crowds: ‘… For this is the will of my Father, that everyone who sees the Son and believes in him may have eternal life, and I shall raise him on the last day’” (John 6: 37-40). The readings were comforting, and I hoped the priest would use them in his homily. Unfortunately, it was not the message of love, forgiveness, and eternal life that I heard pronounced from the pulpit that morning. Instead I heard a clear command to do my duty as a Catholic and support the sanctity of marriage by voting Yes on Proposition 8. This was the controversial amendment that sought to circumvent the 2008 California Supreme Court ruling which declared a previous same-sex marriage ban (Proposition 22) as unconstitutional. I was insulted and disappointed, but I struggled to suppress my anger. The clearest thought I had, sitting in the pew, was relief that my children and their fiancés were not present to hear this disheartening, political directive. This was the Catholic Church at its doctrinaire worst, stepping across the line between faith and politics, and wandering away from the spiritual Kingdom of God and the Good News that Jesus proclaimed. I had already decided to support the ruling of the courts by voting No on Proposition 8 and avoiding the religious controversy surrounding the debate. Now the Catholic Church was thrusting the issue back in my face and telling me how to vote from the pulpit. I had come to church with very different expectations. My plan had been to attend mass and then participate in the community celebration of Dia de los Muertos. I knew of this Mexican tradition, with the art work, foods, and activities which took place every year on this day, but I had never participated. I was hoping to go and watch, free from rancorous moral or political arguments. With an effort, I closed my mind to the priest’s exhortations and suppressed my emotions for the remainder of the service. This Sunday was All Soul’s Day, the Day of the Dead, or Dia de los Muertos. It was the final leg of the 3-day series of secular and religious rites that started with Halloween and ended on November 2. As a child, I remembered this autumnal triduum beginning with the magical words “Trick or Treat!”

Trick or treat! That declaration, or question, was the “open sesame” to the wonder and excitement of Halloween. My earliest memory of that day was dressing up in a skeleton costume and going, along with my brother and two sisters, to Abuelita’s House in Lincoln Heights. There, embraced by the family’s blend of English-and-Spanish, we were handed over to our youngest aunts and uncle, Espie, Lisa, and Charlie (see Nacimiento Stories), who instructed us in the rules and etiquette of this uniquely American tradition. Our parents and older relatives stayed at home to distribute candy, or left for adult parties, while we took to the sidewalks. It was so cool; and so simple! Halloween consisted of children banding together for courage and convenience, and calling on houses in the neighborhood to solicit candy. A child’s ease with night-time activities requires structure, and Charlie was a master at Halloween. To insure safety and profitability, he explained, five rules needed to be followed: 1) always go in a group, keeping an eye on your younger brothers and sisters, because if you lose one, you might as well never come home; 2) only visit houses with well-lit porches, because luminosity meant trick-or-treaters were safe; 3) keep the smallest and cutest children at the forefront of the group when saying “Trick ó treat!”, because adults loved being charmed before giving the finer treats; 4) never enter the homes you visit, because some adults were not to be trusted; and, finally, 5) all the collected booty had to be pooled. The length of our “trick-or-treating” depended on a variety of factors: the weather (cold was a problem, but rain was a killer); the willingness and cooperation of the little ones (the longer they held out, the richer the haul); and the game plan – to concentrate on the opulent homes, and hop-scotch along the street, or go door-to-door, visiting each house, one by one. Every year was different, because the ages and make up of our groups varied each season. However we never had a bad outing because rewards were guaranteed.
The key to a successful Halloween in a Mexican family was the rendezvous at the end of the evening, and the merging of loot in an elaborate ceremony. Once the “trick ó treating” was over, and all the children were back at home (the oldest kids were always the last to return, carrying the largest bags), we would huddle together with mugs of steaming chocolate, the little ones already in pajamas, to combine, and reorganize our candy. One by one, each child stepped forward, youngest to oldest, to empty their Halloween bags on the kitchen (or dining room) table. We would “ooohhh” at the bulk and shape of each sack that was raised, and “aaahhhh” as the gum, suckers, candy, and chocolate bars spilled out. Each candy was a house-memory, and the big bars of chocolate were mythic. Tales were shared and exaggerated upon for the adults who gathered around us. They would hear of the evening’s travels and adventures, of the people we met, the jokes we heard, and the odd behaviors we noticed. If time allowed, we would then adjourn to the family room to watch scary movies on television before leaving for home, or going to bed. Vampira was the fright-night diva in the mid 50’s, and her slinky, clinging, low-cut black gown, and her eastern European (Transylvanian?) accent, was the perfect nightcap to Halloween. However, before we got too excited or comfortable, or fell asleep, our mother would hustle us home or to bed. Tomorrow, she reminded us, was a holy day of obligation, and we had to go to mass.
One of the few “perks” of being a Catholic school student was having a school holiday on the day after Halloween, All Saints’ Day. However, it was a mixed blessing. On the one hand, the magic of Halloween was heightened by the blissful knowledge that there was no school the following day. On the other, there is nothing worse than being dragged out of a warm and comfortable bed, sleepy, exhausted, and grumpy at 8 o’clock on a cold or rainy morning. The fact that we were obligated, under pain of mortal sin, to attend mass on November 1, made it very clear that this was the central religious feast day of this triduum. However, for a child, the reasons weren’t obvious, although I knew the answer lay in its title. This day commemorated all the dead martyrs and saints of the Church who did not have specific feast days. Okay and why was that important to me as a second grader at St. Teresa of Avila School in Silver Lake? Why did saints need my prayers? I loved October 31, the Eve of All Saints’ Day, because it was a gaudy, folk-celebration filled with costumes, excitement, and repressed fears of death, ghosts, and demons. I also saw the value for November 2, as a day to remember dead relatives and friends. But the keystone to this triad, All Saints’ Day, was pointless; people simply went to mass and prayed for the saints. It seemed more of a hassle than a celebration. I didn’t “get it” until after my father died on November 1, 1971.

I never saw my father on the day he died. I was stationed at Norton Air Force Base, in San Bernardino at the time of his death. When I finally arrived home, his body had been removed to the mortuary. Even though he had experienced 3 previous heart attacks, and was unable to work or exert himself for over two years, his death was a shock. No one expected a husband and father of 6 children to die so suddenly. I was 23 years old at the time, and a first year soldier in the Air Force; my baby brother Alex was 4. There was something very wrong with a man dying that way. Death was for OLD people, abuelos (grandparents), bisabuelos (great-grandparents), and the ancient and infirm; my dad was only 50 years old. His disappearance made my previously ordered and predictable life seem uncertain and precarious. I saw my father on a weekend leave, and then he was gone forever. These feelings of impermanence lasted for a long time. A consequence of this unease was a series of crazy sightings I had for many years after the funeral. They would occur when driving on the freeway, and I glimpsed the familiar back of a man’s head, or a recognizable profile in the car beside me. I was convinced my father was in those cars. I tried speeding up, or re-positioning my car to confirm my impulse, but never managed to close the distance. My logic would intrude and shame me into doubting the possibility of such an encounter. I had seen my father in his casket, and knew he was buried – the dead did not rise. It was then that I began searching for confirmation of an ordered and loving universe, and the existence of people who knew the path from life to death, and could explain the detours that occurred along the way. These Beacons of Light would have to be rare individuals who had broken through the membrane of our earthly plain and achieved spiritual and metaphysical enlightenment. They knew the way, and could help others find it. These were the saints, the mystics, and the buddhas - the spiritual pathfinders of the Catholic Church, and other religions. The Church has always venerated these holy and mystical people as models, guides, and patrons who help others in their search for meaning, compassion, and the Kingdom of God. In the early church tradition, parents named their boys and girls in honor of saints, so as to bind them as spiritual co-parents to these children. In many European countries, Catholic children still celebrate two anniversaries: their birth-days (cumpleaños), AND their saint-days (dia de santos).Towns and cities were also named for saints (or dedicated to them) with the expectation that in return the municipalities would receive blessings and protection from their namesakes. Over time, although the customs continued to be practiced, the rationale for this close connection to the saints faded. In Latin America, when Spanish and Portuguese priests and monks began converting Native Americans to Catholicism, their notion of a huge body of saints (the Communion of Saints) fit perfectly with the Indian pantheon of gods, goddesses, and spirits. Indians, eager to satisfy the demands of the priests, while still maintaining their cultural identity (and in some cases their religious practices), chose Christian saint names, or adopted patron saints for towns and villages, whose feast days coincided with their pagan gods and goddess. Therefore saints, in the Catholic tradition, were a repository of wisdom and guidance, and a vital spiritual resource which had to be recognized and respected. It seemed to me, that All Saint’s Day, on November 1, was a form of spiritual insurance, a catch-all holy day for every saint who did not have their own particular feast day. The concept would make a lot of sense to the Catholic Church who did not want to slight or offend ANY saint and martyr. Six years after my father’s death, at the birth of my son, the sightings ceased. I had come to accept my father as one of the saints which the Church honored on his death day. My life changed dramatically when he died, and it seemed as if all my subsequent actions and experiences were guided by his presence and benevolent spirit. From being offered a teaching job at my high school alma mater, meeting my future bride on a blind date, to the births of my children (Toñito named after St. Anthony of Padua, and Prisa, named after St. Teresa of Avila), blessings and good fortune befell my father’s family, his children and grandchildren. However, my private canonization of my father was a personal matter, not recognized by the Church. The Church offered its own version of a day for the dead on November 2.

At the end of the “Yes on Proposition 8”mass, I escaped through a side exit, and evaded the pamphleteers who were handing out flyers to the predominately Hispanic parishioners. Once away from the pressing crowds and congestion, I took a deep breath of fresh air and continued on my way. All Soul’s Day has always been the most sensible and practical day of the triduum. It is simply the Day of the Dead. I was never really satisfied with the official Church explanation of who was a saint, who was a soul, and how Purgatory factored into this equation - so I ignored it. On the other hand, the Mexican folk customs and traditions for Dia de los Muertos fascinated me. I was intrigued by the artistic craftwork, the papier-mâché sculptures, the paintings, the candy, pastry and the elaborate decoration of family altars commemorating the dead. The celebration of Dia de los Muertos in Canoga Park, centers on a street fair along Sherman Way. It begins at the conclusion of the 9:30 Mass at the parish church, and ends with a parade back to the church for the 6 o’clock service. After mass, I parked my car near the old public library. This was a quiet and shady location, one block away from the hub of activity. I could hear and feel the thumping bass coming from distant loudspeakers as I geared up, standing next to my trunk. I took my coat, 2 cameras, a carrying case, cell phone, wallet, and notebook. This was more stuff than I needed, could use, or adequately carry; but I wanted to cover every contingency. In this over-dressed and overburdened fashion, I labored along the uneven, tree-lined sidewalk, and pushed the last vestiges of the morning’s sermon out of my head. Keeping pace with the quickening rhythms in the air, it struck me that I had no plan; I had no expectations of today’s adventure. Suddenly, I was out of the shade and into the bright sunlight of the main street. Hip-hop Latino music bounced off the one-story buildings and stores that bordered the street. A flood of men, women, teenagers, and children swirled around me and the white-topped booths in the center of the street. The island-like pavilions anchored the hundreds of craftsmen, vendors, and concessionaires who were working, cooking, or selling their wares. I was swept up in the surging multitude of walking, talking, standing, pointing, buying, and eating spectators. A riptide of flowing bodies, colors, and sounds, pushed me farther and faster than I wanted to go along the street. I came to a momentary stop when I bumped into a shaved-headed, thickly biceped, tattooed man, standing in front of a booth. There I found myself staring at a wedding cake arrangement of skulls, bones, and crucifixes. The highest layers contained finely appareled Madonna skeletons and elegant figurines of gowned and bonneted “catrina” skeletons of various sizes. I was drowning in a sea of plaster, ceramic, and papier-mâché artwork of the ghoulish and the dead. I stepped away from my cholo friend, and took hold of myself. This was going too fast, and there was too much to see, hear, and remember. I needed a plan and a perspective from which to view and appreciate these objects and experiences. I was determined to start over, concentrating on every moment. I would approach this celebration, its art, and its meaning, as a first time viewer, a fascinated student and a thoughtful photographer. I would take in all that I saw and observed. Walking back, against the pedestrian current, I slowly made my way to the intersection where I had entered, and found an empty store alcove to stop and take my bearings. I looked around.

The entire sidewalk corner was covered with a series of 4, hunched-over, technically engrossed, chalk artists, and an audience watching them work. How could I have missed this? I marveled at the care with which the artists treated the concrete surface, and their gentleness in creating something new. I’d always thought of chalk painters as sketchers, caricaturists, or street hustlers who turned a quick-trick on the ground for a few extra dollars. These were authentic artists, teachers, and philosophers, who used the earth as their medium, and the street as their studio.The artists only painted images of macabre, iconic, or historical significance. The first sidewalk fresco was an anatomically detailed skeleton (esqueleto), bordered in a field of black; the next was a giant portrait of Frida Kahlo, the Mexican artist, feminist, and political activist of the 1930’s and 40’s; the third was a stylized depiction of a dancing, Mexican esqueleto, wearing a wide-brimmed mariachi sombrero; and the last was a painting of Emiliano Zapata, the legendary Mexican revolutionary of the 1910’s. I could see mothers and fathers pointing out these figures to their children. It was reminiscent of the first time I saw the historical murals of Siqueiros and Orozco in Mexico City and heard elderly grandparents using them as illustrations of the national struggles of Mexico for their grandchildren. Sadly, these sidewalk murals would not last the week. By Tuesday or Wednesday, pedestrians, skateboarders, joggers and cyclists would no longer avoid defacing the works by walking around them. Indifferent wheels, shoes, and sneakers would soon rub away and erase the momentary images that existed on the sidewalk. This was one of the over-arching themes that ran through the day and the festival – death and impermanence; nothing lasts forever, and everything dies. This theme was manifested in every artistic medium in the festival. I was surrounded by art. It was in the air, on the ground, and in each stall; creation and decay, innovation and destruction, beginnings and endings. I spent 3 hours exploring the street fair on Dia de los Muertos. I visited every booth, inspected all the paintings and artwork, explored the roof and balcony floors of the Madrid Theatre, watched the Aztec dancers, and listened to the mariachi bands. The preponderance of skulls (calaveras), skeletons (esqueletos), and stylized crucifixes were a constant reminder of death, and yet, life and renewal was everywhere.

Halloween is not celebrated in Mexico. There are no festivities on the EVE of All Saints’ Day; the holiday occurs the next day. Dia de los Muertos is a blossoming of a transplanted European religious practice. I saw this immediately in a recurring image that was visible in every booth and exhibit I passed. The repetition of esqueletos and calaveras in paintings, drawings, figurines, candy and bread, makes those images appear uniquely Mexican. The most recognized Mexican figures are the paintings and drawings of a string or quintet of musical skeletons dancing, strutting, or playing instruments. In fact, this common motif is a lineal descendent of the late medieval engravings and woodcuts of The Danse Macabre (The Dance of Death). The 1400’s were dark and dangerous times in Europe. This was the period when the Four Horseman of the Apocalypse (Death, Famine, Pestilence, and War) terrorized the countryside, cities, and towns. These were the Dark Ages; the times of witchcraft and the Black Plague which left such an indelible impression on the hearts, minds, and imaginations of Europeans, and gave birth to the images of the Danse Macabre. The original depiction showed Death leading a row of dancing figures from all walks of life to the grave. The “dance” was an allegory of the equality and inevitability of death – no matter our wealth, station, or age, everyone will die. It was a reminder of the Christian concept of the fragility of life, and the hollowness of the vanities of wealth, youth, and beauty. It was also a reminder of the statement in Genesis that we are dust, and to dust we will return. The only escape from this short and brutish life was eternal happiness in Heaven. However, only the Catholic Church held the keys to this Kingdom; it held the power to forgive sins and erase the impediments to heaven. Therefore, All Souls’ Day was the European feast day that concentrated the efforts of the living on praying and offering masses and indulgences for the dead (this would later be corrupted into the practice of paying for masses and indulgences - which prompted Martin Luther into starting the Protestant Reformation). This was the religious iconography and traditions that the Catholic Church brought to Mexico and the Americas in the 1500’s. However, instead of surrendering to them, the Indians changed them. Just as a Mexican representation of the Danse Macabre transposed a frightful line of awkwardly moving skeletons, into a merry and raucous band of mariachi esqueletos, so it took a morbid feast day for the dead, and transformed it into a festive celebration of the living.


The rhythmic rattles and steady beat of the Indian drums alerted me to the main attraction at the center of the street fair. There, at the foot of the main stage, a troop of eight plumed and costumed performers moved and swayed to the flute and percussion arrangement of a pre-Cortesian dance. The complexity of the choreography belied the simplicity of the beat. The music was easy to follow and it attracted larger and larger audiences. Standing at the outer limits of the crowd, and searching for a line of sight that would allow photographs of the dancers, I was struck by the irony of this sight. What was being memorialized here, Mexico’s pagan past or the liberating new religion? This indigenous pageant pointed out one of Mexico’s central mysteries – whose religion actually won out after the “conquest”?

By 1550, Spain and Portugal occupied all of Mexico, Central and South America, and were inadvertently melding the two peoples and cultures into one. The possibility of mixing the religions would have been anathema. However, in converting Indians to Catholicism, enlightened missionaries first learned the indigenous languages, the cultures, and the religions of the vanquished people. Then they taught their own doctrine by pointing out the differences, similarities, and superior benefits of the Catholic faith. Sophisticated Indian religions were violent and bloody, with human sacrifices and cannibalism a common feature at the highest levels of observance. Aztec, Inca, and Mayan ceremonies included pulsating hearts being ripped out of heaving chests, and walls of skulls decorating pyramid topping temples. The pastoral religion of Abraham, Moses, and Jesus Christ was certainly an improvement over this, even with its morbid medieval iconography of suffering, torture, and death. Showing similarities was meant to comfort and reassure the Indians that converting to Christianity was the smart thing to do. To emphasize the inevitability of submission, the Spaniards even built their churches and cathedrals atop the rubble of destroyed pyramid temples and shrines. The victors never expected the Indians to fuse or unify the Christian beliefs and forms with Indian practices and observances. Priests and friars began suspecting this syncretistic practice only when they discovered pagan idols and statuettes behind church altars, or buried on church grounds and in cemeteries. Dia de los Muertos, became one of these syncretistic observances.
Standing on the balcony of the Madrid Theatre, I saw the full sweep of the day’s events. The Aztec dancers had moved to a courtyard setting, the juvenile mariachi bands were mobilizing near the outdoor stage, and wave after wave of people flowed in and around the tables, booths and exhibits on the street. Until today, I had never seen a Dia de los Muertos celebration. My visits and vacations to Mexico never coincided with this fall holiday, and the customs were not observed in my family. While my mother was strict in observing the religious aspects of the feast days, we never took part in any of the Dia de los Muertos activities. I was only academically familiar with the history, artwork, iconography, and practices of this day through stories, books and pictures. It took a discovery by Kathy’s parents, Mary and the doctor (see On My Way to You), to pique my ethnic curiosity and revitalize my own interest in the central aspects of this Mexican holiday.

After the death of their daughter Debbie (see The Pleiades), Mary and the doctor became regular visitors to the San Fernando Mission Cemetery. It was there, surrounded by the graves of many Mexican and Mexican-American families that they observed a curious phenomenon. Throughout the year, Mexican families would descend on the graves of loved ones and stand, sit, gossip, or picnic. These were not drive-by occasions, but full half-day excursions. The families would bring gardening equipment, blankets, chairs and tables, and they would tend, decorate, and deposit gifts, food, beer, and pictures at the site. They would also bring, and set up miniature Christmas trees, televisions, Valentine’s Day bouquets, and Easter eggs baskets. It seemed as if these families were continuing to include their departed sister, brother, mother, or father in the cyclical celebrations of life that occupied the living. While these practices at first shocked my in-laws, they also gave them license to maintain their own level of intense communion with their deceased daughter. Mary was especially fascinated with the Dia de los Muertos custom of setting up private altars by the headstones, and there placing the favorite foods, beverages, photos, and memorabilia of the departed. When she asked me about it, I explained that many rural and provincial Mexicans held the folk belief that during Day of the Dead, it was easier for souls of the departed to visit the living. Therefore, families went to cemeteries not only to REMEMBER the dead, but to coax and encourage them to VISIT and STAY with them for a while. The altars were meant as spiritual inducements to the dead. Small shrines were placed at the gravesites, but larger, more elaborate altars were constructed at home. These were the multi-tiered altars flowing with countless candles, food, cakes, candies, crosses, statues, images of the saints and the Virgen de Guadalupe, and photographs of deceased relatives and friends.

At the conclusion of my day, walking past a car with a “Yes on Proposition 8” bumper sticker, I felt oddly reassured. I had spent the day witnessing how a people and a culture can affect the Church by simply ignoring a dreary, solemn practice, and changing it into a joyful observance. All Souls’ Day (Day of the Dead) was never part of Christ’s message to humanity; it was an observance of the Church, meant to point us in the right direction (the finger pointing at the moon). Mexico translated and modified this day into something very different. Dia de los Muertos, with all its images and pictures of skulls and skeletons, is not about remembering the dead, and the inevitability of our own death. Paradoxically, the day is a celebration of this brief and wonderful life. The calaveras are decorated and transformed into sugared candies and curious figurines for the living. Esqueletos are not presented as frightful reminders of decay and decomposition, but as slender, well-dressed mariachi musicians, or curvaceous and elegantly gowned women who are here to entertain and seduce. This is the day when the dead can remember being alive, and perhaps leave us, the living, with a message: “Life may be short, harsh, and unfair, but it is such a blessing – so treasure every moment”.
